Exploring Prague

            After departing from Leipzig we had a brief delay in Dresden before proceeding on to arrive in Prague. I had a fantastic time in the Czech Republic and it had a very different feel than Germany. I think one of the highlights of this trip was being able to visit such a wide variety of places.

            In Prague, the aspect of the city’s geography that most fascinated me was the placement and development of the Nové Butovice Panaláks. These communist era apartment buildings were constructed so a large population of people could live in a concentrated area. The apartments themselves are quite small, but all necessary services besides work are nearby or in the same apartment building. This includes grocery stores, schools, and plenty of green space outside the buildings. All residents were intended to be a short walk away from the metro. Unlike in the United States, these complexes do not have any negative associations and middle class families often reside in them. I was struck by these complexes because they are so different than Old Town Prague. Since Prague was not bombed during World War II many old buildings still stand. The Panaláks in Nové Botovice offer a strong contrast to the much older feel of the city in general. I was glad to have the opportunity to view a place where citizens of Prague live outside of the Old Town area.

Village of Lidice

            My favorite academic experience was our class trip out to the destroyed village of Lidice. Many of my fellow students had no idea of what happened at Lidice although I had heard of it before in my history classes. After the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich in Prague, the occupying Nazis wanted to make an example to suppress any thoughts of resistance to their control. Lidice was the small village that was decided upon. The men were shot and the women and children were sent to concentration camps. The Nazis then systematically destroyed each building to make it as if the village of Lidice had never existed at all. For me the most powerful statue was of the children of Lidice standing in a group. The sculptor managed to capture the unique emotion of each child. Where the village once stood is a well maintained field with the former locations of important buildings in the village marked. These locations included the church and the school house. There is a new small village located next to this site that developed after the war. Visiting Lidice was a very powerful and emotional experience.

Statue of children at Lidice Site

            My favorite extra-curricular experience was walking and shopping along the famous Charles Bridge. We went to the Charles Bridge as part of our class, but it was still early when we arrived and the street vendors had not yet begun to sell their goods. I returned much later that evening with a small group and we walked the bridge, shopped, and looked out at the beautiful view of Prague. It was very relaxing and enjoyable. The goods available for purchase were all homemade and of good quality. The prices were also reasonable. It was still crowded of course, as the Charles Bridge is a major tourist area, but as long as I paid attention to my belongings I felt secure. It was a lovely walk that was very much worth the return visit to the bridge.

On the Charles Bridge

            As far as food recommendations for Prague, I would suggest a visit to a small café near the Smetana House. This café and house is just off the Charles Bridge. It is called Klub Lavka. This was a small sit-down restaurant with a traditional Czech menu. The prices are not unreasonable and it is right along the Danube, offering excellent views. For the more adventurous food-lovers, this restaurant does serve pork knuckle, a Czech specialty. I stuck to more familiar sounding dishes but one of my companions tried the pork knuckle and quite enjoyed it. Whatever food you choose, Klub Lavka had good service, was relatively quick, and offered us blankets as the sun began to set. It was a lovely place for a meal.

            I truly enjoyed my time in Prague and there were so many other wonderful experiences I could document here. It is so hard to pick favorite sights when we truly saw so much. Next time I will be talking about my brief time in Brno.

References:

 Památník Lidice. “History of Lidice Village.” Accessed July 14, 2014.

            http://www.lidice-memorial.cz/history_en.aspx.

Klub Lávka. “Klub Lávka.” Accessed July 14, 2014.

                http://www.lavka.cz/en/.

Ryan Scott. “Cemented In: Prague’s Panalák Estates.” Accessed July 14, 2014.

            http://www.expats.cz/prague/article/czech-culture/prague-panelaks/.

Picture References:

1.      Emily Herkert. Charles Bridge from Bridge Tower. June 8, 2014. Prague, Czech

Republic.

2.      Emily Herkert. Nové Botovice. June 8, 2014. Prague, Czech Republic.

3.      Emily Herkert. The Remains of Lidice. June 7, 2014. Lidice, Czech Republic.

4.      Emily Herkert. Children’s Statue: Lidice. June 7, 2014. Lidice, Czech Republic.

5.      Emily Herkert. On the Charles Bridge. June 5, 2014. Prague, Czech Republic.

A Brief Stay in Leipzig

Leipzig

            After we left Berlin, we traveled to Leipzig. We only stayed there for one full day, but we still had an amazing time in this city. We stayed primarily in the older parts of town and followed the Music Trail. In Leipzig we heavily emphasized music as this was the home of Johann Sebastian Bach.

Holocaust Memorial, Leipzig

            I was most fascinated by the location of the Holocaust Memorial in Leipzig. The city of Leipzig had a large Jewish population, but they were sent to concentration camps and largely exterminated. The memorial to these murdered Jews in Leipzig was a large cement slab filled with empty metal chairs. These chairs are meant to act as places where the spirits of the Jews can rest. The location of this memorial is significant as it is on the site of the old synagogue which no longer exists. The site is very powerful, but there are no identifying markers indicating exactly what the significance of the location. We were only informed about the site through a group presentation. I was glad to have visited the memorial.

Völkerschlachtdenkmal

Entrance Statue at Völkerschlachtdenkmal

            My favorite academic experience was our trip out to Völkerschlachtdenkmal or the Monument to the Battle of Nations. This massive monument commemorates Napoleon’s defeat at Leipzig. This was seen as a major accomplishment by Prussia and all Germanic peoples. The monument though, was not built until 1913. It is a very strange place. The building itself feels as if it should be much more than one hundred years old. It seems to symbolize the growing sense of nationalism in Germany, as it commemorates a victory one hundred years after the event. While at this location, it feels as if the purpose of the building is one of pure intimidation.  It makes sense that Hitler frequently visited this structure when he was in Leipzig. The figures and statues around the imposing monument are stone-faced warriors. The architecture does not match the style in which it was built. In a way it reminded me of the Mayan Pyramids I viewed in Mexico except with a more war-like theme. It felt out of place and imposing, but the view from the top was fantastic and I would recommend a trip to this site for anyone visiting Leipzig.

Mendelssohn Statue, Leipzig (Not at Mendelssohn House)

            My favorite extra-curricular experience was visiting the Mendelssohn House in Leipzig. This house was the location where the famous composer Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy lived and composed many of his famous works. We were able to view his piano and many of his personal belongings throughout his house. The recreation of his living quarters was on the second floor while the first floor was filled with more details about Mendelssohn’s life. One room allowed visitors to virtually conduct a few of Mendelssohn’s works. We were also able to walk into the garden behind the house, which was lovely. I was not very familiar with the work of Mendelssohn before this trip, so I greatly enjoyed learning more about this famous composer.

Statue of Faust and Devil outside of Auerbach's Keller

            I have a very strong recommendation for food in Leipzig. There is a restaurant underground in the Mädler Passage called Auerbach’s Keller (Auerbach’s Cellar). This restaurant has a bit of an eerie feel as it is down in an old wine cellar. This is the restaurant where the German poet Goethe wrote the famous epic poem Faust. The food is a bit pricier, but not unreasonable if you select carefully from the menu. Traditional German cuisine is served. I went with a larger group of fellow students and everyone had a satisfactory meal. Both the food and the atmosphere is great. This restaurant is a must see for anyone staying in Leipzig.

            Next blog post I will be detailing my favorite experiences and giving food recommendations for Prague.

 

References:

Auerbach’s Keller Restaurant.  “Auerbach’s Keller Leipzig.” Accessed July 13, 2014.                 
     http://www.auerbachs-keller-leipzig.de/#panel-tab-id2.

Mendelssohn Foundation. “The Mendelssohn House in Leipzig,” Accessed July 13, 2014.     
     https://www.mendelssohn-stiftung.de/r-house.html.
Trip Advisor. “Holocaust Memorial.” Accessed July 13, 2014.

     http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187400-d3336091-Reviews
     Holocaust_Memorial-Leipzig_Saxony.html.  
Voelkerschlachtdenkmal.eu. “Battle of the Nations Monument in Leipzig.” Accessed July 13, 2014.

     http://www.voelkerschlachtdenkmal.eu/.

Picture References:

1.      Emily Herkert, Leipzig from the Battle of Nations Monument, June 3, 2014,

Leipzig, Germany.

2.      Emily Herkert, Holocaust Memorial Leipzig, June 2, 2014, Leipzig, Germany.

3.      Emily Herkert, Battle of Nations Monument, June 3, 2014, Leipzig, Germany.

4.      Emily Herkert, Soldier at Battle of Nations Monument, June 3, 2014, Leipzig,

Germany.

5.      Emily Herkert, Felix Mendelssohn Statue, June 2, 2014, Leipzig, Germany.

6.      Emily Herkert, Faust and Devil: Auerbach’s Keller, June 2, 2014, Leipzig, Germany.

Berlin Adventures

          

            I began my European adventure in Berlin, the capital city of Germany. I had so many fantastic experiences in this city that it is difficult for me to pick a specific place that I liked the best. In these blog posts about the cities we visited, I will be talking about the city’s geography, my favorite academic experience, my favorite extra-curricular experience, and recommending a place to eat for future travelers.

Walking Through Tiergarten

            An aspect of the geography of Berlin that I was fascinated with was the emphasis placed on having green space within the city. This was most prevalent when we walked through the massive Tiergarten. I am from a small town, but I have traveled to larger cities in the United States before. Usually in larger cities I miss the trees and grass of the countryside. Unlike these cities, Berlin seems to have made a commitment to keeping large green spaces within the city. While we were walking through the Tiergarten it felt like I could be visiting any forest back home in Wisconsin. This land would be prime real estate if were developed, but the people of Berlin chose to keep it as a park and the government agreed. I found it refreshing to have such a large, relaxed, natural environment in the middle of a modern city.

 Jewish Museum

            My favorite academic experience in Berlin was our visit to the Jewish Museum. I thought this museum was done very well. It is laid out in three different axis: the Axis of Exile, the Axis of the Holocaust, and the Axis of Continuity. The Axis of Exile focused on the experiences of Jewish individuals who were forced to leave their homes and resettle in new places. The Axis of the Holocaust highlighted the Jewish experience during the Holocaust. The Axis of Continuity was my favorite and by far the longest axis of the three. It detailed the history of the Jewish people throughout time. Instead of focusing solely on the tragedy of the Holocaust and more recent Jewish history, these exhibits detailed the early through modern history of the Jewish people. This included both their contributions to society as well as the many struggles they faced throughout time. I thought the entire museum was excellently done. The architecture of the museum was incredibly interesting. The windows were not designed to really function as windows in the building, but to look almost like scars on the outside of the building. It was one of the most interesting examples of modern architecture that I have ever seen. The Jewish Museum was an amazing experience.

Scars on the Building: Jewish Museum

            My favorite extra-curricular experience was my trip out to Olympia Stadium. Home of the 1936 Olympics, this historic stadium was a place that I was very interested in visiting. I took the metro out to Olympia Stadium with one of my classmates and a professor. The metro stop was conveniently located on Jesse Owens Lane. I imagine that the street’s name is a more recent change. The stadium was only a few blocks down the street. The building was rather imposing and an excellent example of Fascist architecture. There were several large Fascist statues around the stadium that represent strength. We walked to the main entrance, but were unable to take a tour because there was a concert going on in the stadium. However, we were able to see the front of the stadium as well as the Olympic Rings. As a history student I was excited to be able to visit such a historically significant place during my free time. If I ever return to Berlin I hope to be able to take a tour of the stadium.

            Finally, I will recommend a place to eat for future students and travelers. Berlin is famous for a type of sausage known as currywurst. They even have a currywurst museum. I must confess that I tried currywurst and I did not care for it. It was sort of like a bratwurst covered with a slightly spicy curry sauce. However, I would still recommend that any travelers try this Berlin specialty. Eating the food of a city is part of the cultural experience. For currywurst, I would recommend the small fast food restaurant where I got mine, near Alexanderplatz. Simply called Currywurst Express, this restaurant specialized in currywurst and French fries. It was a relatively cheap lunch and I was able to try one of the cultural foods of Berlin.

            I had an excellent time in Berlin and if I reflected on all my experiences I would have to start a separate blog. Next time I give advice and suggestions about Leipzig, Germany.

References:

Berlin.de.“Tiergarten,”  Accessed July 13, 2014.
     http://www.berlin.de/orte/sehenswuerdigkeiten/tiergarten/index.en.php.
Jüdisches Museum Berlin. “Jewish Museum Berlin.” Accessed July 13, 2014.

           http://www.jmberlin.de/main/EN/homepage-EN.php.

Olympiastadion Berlin.  “Olympiastadion.” Accessed July 13, 2014.

    http://www.olympiastadion-berlin.de/en.html.

Picture References:

1.      Emily Herkert, Berlin from the Victory Column, May 31, 2014, Berlin, Germany.

2.      Emily Herkert, Walking Through Tiergarten, May 31, 2014, Berlin, Germany.

3.      Emily Herkert, Jewish Museum, May 30, 2014, Berlin, Germany.

4.      Emily Herkert, Scars on the Building, Jewish Museum, May 30, 2014, Berlin,

Germany.

5.      Emily Herkert, Olympia Stadium, May 31, 2014, Berlin Germany.

6.      Emily Herkert, Currywurst Express in Alexanderplatz, May 29, 2014, Berlin,

Germany.

Travel Advice

            Hello Everyone! I made it safely back from Central Europe and am now finishing the final portion of my class. I had an amazing time! As part of my class I have been asked to write ten blog posts about my experiences both for my own grade and as a resource for future students. This first entry is about traveling to Europe and advice for future students.

            The first tips I have for future students involve packing. I used a small suitcase not much larger than carry-on size, a large backpack that I use for school, and a cross-shoulder purse. This does not sound like a lot of space, and truly it is not. However, if you pack carefully, you can have plenty of room in this arrangement. I as far as clothes, I brought 5 shirts, a jacket, a rain coat, pajamas, 3 shorts, 2 capri pants, and a pair of jeans. This doesn’t sound like much for a full month abroad, but if you frequently wash your clothes in the sink, there is never a problem and you always have clean(ish) clothes. I suggest rolling your clothes when you pack them to save space. I used my backpack as my carry-on and the main space where I put the souvenirs I bought along the trip. I used my relatively large purse as my day bag. Space is limited, but if you plan ahead you will have no problems.

            I had quite an experience traveling to Europe, and I have a lot of advice for future travelers. First, I flew from a small regional airport to Chicago. I met up with another girl from my class to fly to Newark, New Jersey. Then we flew from Newark to Berlin Tegel Airport. We encountered no problems or setbacks until after we got on our international flight in Newark. We were on the runway when the plane’s back up battery did not work. We sat on the runway for a hour before there was finally a space open where it could be fixed back at the airport. It took another hour to get the plane fixed and most of another hour before we could take off. This would have simply been an inconvenience, but while the plane was being worked on, the power on the plane was turned off. It was 90 degrees Fahrenheit outside, making the inside of the plane around 110 degrees Fahrenheit. It was around dinner time so everyone was hungry and progressively more irritable. I was hungry and overheated just like everyone else. Finally, the plane and therefore the air conditioning turned back on and we were finally able to take off to Europe.

           

            Not long after we were in the air, dinner was served. I was hungry and my body temperature was finally returning to normal. Unfortunately, I ate too much too quickly and the addition of the warm food caused me overheat. I fainted and threw up. I do not get motion sick, so my illness was the combination of the stresses of traveling and the heat. Thankfully I had a change of clothes, so I could get cleaned up on the plane. I spent the rest of the plane ride trying to sleep. I was excited for Europe, but I had a relatively miserable plane ride.

            My advice for future European travelers (or travelers anywhere) is to always pack a change of clothes in your carry-on. Anything can happen when you travel and its best to be prepared. I also suggest either purchasing or filling up your water bottle at the airport before getting on the plane. Even if the plane has beverage service, you never know if you are going to get stuck on the tarmac for hours. It is important to stay hydrated when you travel. I also suggest always keeping a positive attitude. Traveling is hard on everyone and there are often many inconveniences. A negative attitude just makes it more unpleasant both for you and everyone around you. It is not worth getting upset about things you cannot control.

            It was easy to find our professor in Tegel Airport after we landed. It was time for our adventure in Europe to begin!

Picture References:

1.      Emily Herkert. Plane from Chicago to Newark. May 27, 2014. Chicago, Illinois.

2.      Emily Herkert. Berlin Tegel Airport. May 28, 2014. Berlin, Germany.

Hitler's Bunker, Berlin

            For the final post made in preparation for my CETS trip this summer, my professor has asked that I write a post about how a specific location is remembered and commemorated in Central Europe. Specifically, my professor wants me to look at whether the site I select is an example of sanctification, designation, rectification, or obliteration.  I have decided to examine the site where Adolf Hitler committed suicide in Berlin.

            In 2006, the location of the bunker in which Hitler lived during his last days was marked with a sign for the first time, (Associated Press, 2006). The death site of one of the most feared and hated men in the twentieth century was left completely unrecognized for 61 years. This underground bunker was the location where Hitler and his wife of two days, Eva Braun, committed suicide on April 30, 1945 in response to the destruction of Berlin and incoming Soviet soldiers, (“Lonely Planet,” 2014). Soviet troops destroyed most of the bunker when they uncovered it, and later the remaining portions were filled with rubble in order to make it inaccessible to anyone. In the 1980s, the area was repaved to create a parking lot, (Associated Press, 2006). Currently, the ruins of Hitler’s bunker are covered by a parking lot, a playground, and an apartment building, (Associated Press, 2006). This site, considered important by many for its historical significance, was not preserved or remembered in any way until 2006.

Adolf Hitler and Eva Braun

            The location of Hitler’s bunker is an example of obliteration. The important event that occurred there was covered up and essentially removed from public thought. The site was then transformed for an entirely different use. It was not until 2006 that any form of designation was given to this site. The designation came in the form of a sign, both in German and English, which described the site and gave a map of the bunker network, (Associated Press, 2006). There are many reasons for the obliteration of this location. The primary reasons given are its proximity to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and the idea of any form of commemoration of Hitler making people uncomfortable. Another fear was that having any type of identifying markers at this location would make the site a popular location for Neo-Nazi groups, (Associated Press, 2006). Ultimately, simply having a sign to describe the history of this location seems appropriate. The site is symbolic of many of the atrocities committed by Hitler and the Nazis, and preserving this location could be perceived as a commemoration of the Nazis themselves, not the victims of their policies.

References:

Associated Press. (June 8, 2006). New Marker in Berlin identifies location of Hitler’s bunker. Retrieved from http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/news/world/2006-06-08-bunker_x.htm

Lonely Planet.com. (2014). Hitler’s Bunker. Retrieved from http://www.lonelyplanet.com/germany/berlin/sights/historic/hitler-s-bunker

Picture References:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice/assets/images/2010/02/18/100218170126_hitler_braun_getty_466.jpg

http://images.travelpod.com/tw_slides/ta00/e5e/e1e/hitlers-bunker-location-berlin.jpg

http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/198650.jpg

Kościuszko Mound, Krakow

             After I leave Budapest, I will head to the final stop on the CETS trip, Krakow, Poland. While in Krakow, I will have the opportunity to go see Kościuszko Mound, a memorial site created by the citizens of Krakow to commemorate the Polish hero Tadeusz Kościuszko, (“Lonely Planet,” 2014). The building of mounds was an ancient Polish tradition reserved as symbols of respect for fallen leaders. Examples of older, more ancient mounds include those of Krak and Wanda, historic Polish rulers, (“Kościuszko Mound,” n.d.). These mounds serve as symbolic tombs as well as monuments to the fallen leaders they represent.

            Tadeusz Kościuszko is remembered as a figure who fought for an independent Poland against foreign occupation. He was heavily influenced by the ideas of the Enlightenment and very interested in the ideas of self-rule and independence. Kościuszko traveled to America in 1776 in order to aid the United States in the American Revolution. His input was crucial to the American victory over the British, and he attained the rank of Brigadier General, (“Tadeusz Kościuszko,” n.d.). Following the American Revolution, Kościuszko returned to Poland and became a general in the Polish Army. However, after the Second Partition of Poland,   Kościuszko resigned. He later helped organize an uprising to reclaim an independent Polish state. Ultimately, this uprising failed but Kościuszko was forever cemented as a national hero in Polish memory, (“Tadeusz Kościuszko,” n.d.). The importance of Kościuszko to the Polish people can been seen in the mound that they built for him near Krakow.

 

Tadeusz Kościuszko

            The construction of Kościuszko Mound began shortly after Kościuszko’s death in 1817.  Dirt from the battlefields where Kościuszko fought, both in the United States and Poland, was collected from 1820 to 1823. This soil was then used as the material to create Kościuszko Mound, (“Kościuszko Mound,” n.d.). Today, the mound stands 34 meters high and offers spectacular views over Krakow, (“Lonely Planet,” 2014). This is definitely a landmark that tourists should visit when they are staying in Krakow.

References:

Kościuszko Mound. History of the Kościuszko Mound. Retrieved from: http://www.kopieckosciuszki.pl/?x=historia_kopca&lang=en

Kościuszko Mound. Tadeusz Kościuszko. Retrieved from http://www.kopieckosciuszki.pl/?x=historia_tk&lang=en

Lonely Planet.com. (2014). Kościuszko Mound. Retrieved from http://www.lonelyplanet.com/poland/malopolska/krakow/sights/landmarks-monuments/kosciuszko-mound

Picture References:

http://cracow.travel/upload/object/2011-11/kopiec-kosciuszki.jpg

http://info-poland.buffalo.edu/imageweb/schwekert312.jpg

http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/03/b6/81/ec/kosciuszko-s-mound-kopiec.jpg

Széchenyi Chain Bridge, Budapest

            Once I leave Vienna and Austria behind, I will be travelling on to Budapest, Hungary. While there, I will have the opportunity to view the famous Széchenyi Chain Bridge. This bridge is considered a symbolic building in Budapest and was the first permanent stone-bridge to connect Pest and Buda over the Danube River. (“Chain Bridge,” 2014). Construction of the bridge began in 1839, but the bridge itself was not completed until 1849. The main architect was an Englishman named William Tierney Clark, and the construction supervisor was Adam Clark. However, the original proposal for the bridge came from a Hungarian leader named Count István Széchenyi. (“Chain Bridge,” 2014). Széchenyi was a major supporter of the bridge project and even founded a society for the sole purpose of financing the bridge. Ultimately the bridge itself was given his name after a renovation completed in 1915, (“A Brief History,” 2014). When this bridge was originally constructed it was the second longest suspension bridge in the world, (“Chain Bridge,” 2014). The building of this bridge was a major accomplishment.

            World War II brought much damage and destruction to the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. In January of 1945, German troops blew up all the bridges in Budapest as they retreated. This included the Chain Bridge. The damage was extensive, with only the pillars of the bridge remaining unharmed, (“Chain Bridge, 2014). By 1947 the decision had been made to rebuild the bridge, and it was fully restored and reopened in 1949. The bridge’s reopening marked its centennial anniversary, (“Chain Bridge, 2014). The restoration of the Széchenyi Chain Bridge shows what an important landmark it had become to the Hungarian people.

           

Damage from World War II

Zero Milestone

            Today, the Széchenyi Chain Bridge has two lanes for traffic, and a sidewalk so pedestrians and tourists can cross the bridge to take in the view. In total, the bridge spans a length of 380 meters and is 14.8 meters wide, (“Chain Bridge, 2014). The bridge is known for its fantastic views of the city and is located close to major attractions on both the Buda and Pest sides of the Danube River, (“A Brief History, 2014).  Adam Clark Square, found on the Buda side of the bridge, contains the zero milestone for Hungary, meaning that it is the starting point for all the major Hungarian roads, (“Chain Bridge, 2014). The Széchenyi Chain Bridge is a significant Hungarian landmark and I cannot wait to see it during my stay in Budapest.

References:

Bridges of Budapest.com. (2014). Chain Bridge. Retrieved from http://www.bridgesofbudapest.com/bridge/chain_bridge

Budapest.travel. (2014). A Brief History of Chain Bridge. Retrieved from http://visitbudapest.travel/guide/budapest-attractions/chain-bridge/

Picture References:

http://attractions.topbudapest.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Chain-Bridge-Budapest-WW2.png

http://www.bridgesofbudapest.com/content/pictures/bridges/chain_bridge/0km_stone_adam_clark_square.jpg

http://visitbudapest.travel/images/content/gallery/33/chain-bridge4__big.jpg

http://visitbudapest.travel/images/content/gallery/33/chain-bridge-by-night__big.jpg